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Above shows all the components that should have come packaged with your PowerBloc.
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Insert spring rest onto clutch shaft, flange down
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Insert wear collar, slips over spring rest and covers portion of shaft where belt rides
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Insert spring cap over spring rest, flange up
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Insert spring, fits into spring cap
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Slide outer face over spring
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View of outer and inner faces after steps above
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Insert discs into puck and thread cover in place. The number of discs to be placed in the pucks will depend on how you wish to tune your clutch. The more discs, the quicker the engagement of the clutch. The fewer the number of discs, the higher the rpm's required to engage the clutch. A good place to start would be 10 or 11 discs. Make sure you have the same number in each puck!
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Tighten disc covers
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One end of puck is more narrow than the other.
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Insert pucks into clutch, narrow end down
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Some of the shots below are not "in sequence" but are shown, and should be interpreted as needed for final preparation of clutch for installation. Look at all the following images and decide how best to proceed from your point of view and based on how much help you have. around. For me, getting the cover aligned properly is not an easy task alone. You must assure proper alignment of the cover over the pucks AND alignment of the "D" slot in the top of the shaft and underside of the cover at the same time. It might be possible for you to place marks on the components to help with this. | |
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Important! note the "D" shape on top of clutch shaft
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Important! Flat portion of opening in cover to align with shape on top of shaft. Cover MUST align properly or it will not seat on top of the shaft correctly and will loosen upon initial operation. Bad thing!
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Arrow on top of cover points to alignment flat on inside of cover. This helps see what you cannot see when the cover is being put in place.
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Align the top with cover with the pucks as shown. It will be obvious as to how the slots in the cover nest over the pucks
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I try to align everything properly with the pucks and cover in place before this next step. You must compress the outer face down around the clutch shaft to seat the cover on top of the shaft. At only 170 lbs, I place the clutch on a stool, sit on it, and squeeze with all my strength and still find it hard to compress the spring enough to provide proper seating of the cover on the shaft.
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A "holder" is a very handy thing to have (does not come with clutch). If you do not have one of these, or cannot have one made, you can use a small C-clamp. The advantage of a holder such as shown is that you can place it, put the pucks back in, place the cover and install it on the crankshaft. After you have applied the proper torque to the clutch bolt, the holder can be removed. Depending on the size and configuration of the C-clamp, you may not be able to leave it in place when installing clutch on your machine AND THEN ALL OF THIS ALIGNMENT STUFF HAS TO BE WHILE PUTTING THE CLUTCH ON THE CRANKSHAFT UNDER PRESSURE OF THE CLUTCH SPRING!! It's much easier to do this on the workbench.
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After making sure that the cover is properly seated on top of the clutch shaft, and with the holder still in place, you are ready to fasten this puppy onto your buggy!
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Don't quote me on this but as for torque value when tightening the clutch bolt, I was told to use 90 ft/lbs. I think the manual suggests around 80 ft/lbs. I used 90 as the number and have not yet had a problem with the clutch slipping. I've operated with it for over a year now and according to reference marks I placed across the cover, nut and washer, my clutch has not moved. To tighten the clutch bolt will require that you have some way to hold the clutch from spinning. I followed the lead of some other guys and made a clutch holder. The holder was a simple short bar that at one end had two tabs that came off of the bar at 90 degrees and fit closely around one of the puck slides. It's late and I'm not going out to the garage to take another picture :) but I'll try to do so soon and include it with the information page.
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